Introduction
In choosing to keep fish, you're about to go on a fascinating
journey that'll take you across all the sciences. As with everyone
beginning a new hobby, mistakes are easy to make, so starting by
keeping coldwater fish is a good way to learn: they are hardy and
easy to keep.
Remember, that water provides fish with the oxygen they need to
live. The amount of oxygen contained in water is directly related to
the quality of that water: dirty water has little oxygen in it.
In an aquarium, waste products (ammonia) from the fish can build up,
polluting the water and reducing the oxygen available. Plants and
filters help to break down and remove waste products from the water.
This is known as the nitrogen cycle - and it is essential to
establish this before you add the fish you have chosen.
What do l need
to get going?
Tank
The ideal size is 136
litres, if this is beyond you then don't go any lower than a 45
litre capacity. Larger tanks are easier to keep as a stable
environment, and you can keep more fish. Attractively shaped tanks
are very nice, but the best type to maximize your stock is long and
wide. The surface area governs the amount of fish you can keep in
your tank; 125 square cm of surface area will support 2.5cm of a
deep-bodied fish.
Stand
You're going to need
a stand that will support its weight, keep it level, and can't be
toppled over. If it's a narrow stand, it should be fixed it to a
wall.
Lights
Great lighting shows
off your fish and is essential for plants. However, there is a down
side: light makes algae grow which means more cleaning for you. In
addition, some fish don't like bright lights. There are special
fluorescent lights available which emit very little heat and provide
light at the correct wavelength for plants.
Hood
A tight fitting hood
will stop your fish jumping out, stop unwanted visitors such as a
cat getting in, and provide a covering for your lighting system.
Thermometer
Is a useful
instrument to make sure your coldwater fish don't get too hot.
Maintenance tools
At the very least,
you're going to need a net, tank scraper, a siphon, and a
bucket.
Filter
Every fish tank must
have some form of biological filter to remove waste products
(especially ammonia) and debris. There are numerous good biological,
chemical and mechanical filters on the market. The under gravel
method is one of the most popular.
Gravel
It is preferable to
buy pre-washed gravel from a pet store. Gravel from other sources
will have to be washed and then boiled for 20 minutes, and if you
don't know what type of stone it is, your tank's pH levels could be
affected. It's a good idea to rinse pre-washed gravel again
yourself. Some gravels are plastic coated for easy cleaning - these
should not be boiled!
Decorations
There are lots of
these to choose from! Read the labels carefully in case you have to
boil the decoration before adding it to your tank.
Plants
Make sure you buy
your plants from a good store. Check that they are compatible with
the fish you intend to keep, and that they won't grow too fast.
Air pump
The air pump
circulates air around the tank and increases the rate of absorption
of oxygen at the water surface. There are many different kinds to
choose from.
Essential test kits
To keep a check on
the water quality in the tank you'll need ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
and pH testing kits.
Chlorine treatment
Many water companies
add chlorine and chloramine to your tap water but fish don't get on
well with either of these. Fortunately, there are several good
products to treat your water for these chemicals.
Starter kits and starter fish
To start of the
nitrogen cycle in your tank, you need a source of ammonia. This can
be achieved in two ways: you can buy a starter kit that will add
ammonia to the water; or you can add one or two hardy fish that will
excrete ammonia into the water (called starter fish). Goldfish are
the best starter fish for coldwater tanks: you will need one
goldfish for a 45 litre tank and two goldfish for a 136 litre tank.
Do not add many more fish until the nitrogen cycle in your tank is
established! (see Starting the nitrogen cycle below).
Putting it
together
Place your tank securely
on its stand in its final location. It's best to choose an area of
the room that doesn't get too much direct sunlight because algae
love sunlight.
Start adding a medium-sized gravel (that has been washed according
to the instructions), building it up from the back of the tank. If
you have an under-gravel filter install this now, following the
instructions. The gravel layer should be thinnest at the front of
the tank.
If you have a power filter, install it now so that the tubing runs
along the length of the tank.
Next, arrange your decorations and plants. Leave the plant and root
junction showing above the gravel.
Using pre-treated water fill the tank to about two-thirds, and
adjust the plants and decorations if necessary. Then, fill the rest
of the tank, install your thermometer, and prime your filter by
following the instructions on the packaging.
Your starter goldfish is next. Float the bag it's in on the surface
of your tank for about 30 minutes. Then open the bag and allow the
fish to come out and explore. This is your source of ammonia for the
tank cycling to start.
Finally, if you've bought lights and a hood, install them now.
Starting the nitrogen cycle ('cycling the tank')
Before you stock your tank fully, you need to establish the nitrogen
cycle in the tank. This means that any waste products (e.g. ammonia)
in the tank are broken down by the plants, filter and bacteria in
the water.
Your starter fish or start kit is the source of the ammonia. If you
use a starter fish do not overfeed it!
Test the water levels regularly over the next few weeks. The
nitrogen cycle is working when the ammonia and nitrate levels are
zero. For a coldwater tank, this can take six weeks and longer.
There are safe products that you can add to the water containing
bacteria that can speed this process up safely.
Do not add any fish until you are sure that the tank is cycling
naturally.
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